Southern Italy
Valley of the Temples — Second Chances
Four years after a rushed first visit, we returned to Agrigento’s Valley of the Temples with time to slow down, learn, and finally understand what we were seeing. From Concordia and the Telamons to the landscape itself, the second visit turned ancient ruins into a living story.
Catania – Lava Stone, Etna Wine and Finding the Rhythm of Sicily
Catania felt like Naples with the volume turned down — busy, gritty and full of movement, but somehow never chaotic. Between black volcanic stone, quiet Sunday streets, Etna vineyards, the fish market, almond wine and a tiny restaurant with Nonna still in the kitchen, the city slowly revealed a rhythm all its own.
Calabria – Cosenza, Scilla and the Danger of First Impressions
Calabria kept challenging our first impressions. Cosenza went from cold and overbuilt to somewhere we wanted to return to, while beautiful Scilla slowly revealed the strain of overtourism beneath its postcard views. Between rain-soaked dinners, bergamotto, quiet old streets and one unforgettable final meal in Villa San Giovanni, Calabria turned out to be one of…
Salerno to the Amalfi Coast: Walking the Path of the Lemons
A day trip from Salerno took us by ferry to Minori, then on foot along the Path of the Lemons to Maiori. Between terraced hillsides, sea views, lemon groves, countless stairs, limoncello spritzes, sorbet and lemon pasta, it was a peaceful taste of the Amalfi Coast that felt worlds away from Naples.
Naples: Chaos, Contrasts and Pizza Worth the Trip
Three nights in Naples gave us noise, traffic, contradictions, crumbling streets, grand architecture and some of the best pizza we’ve ever eaten. We never quite fell in love with the city, but Naples felt unapologetically authentic — a place worth experiencing once, even if we were ready to leave when the time came.